12 Worst Ingredients for Eczema

12 Worst Ingredients for Eczema
By Jessica Arenas, Lead Research Analyst •

Up to 13% of people with skin conditions react to ingredients hiding in products labeled "gentle" or "sensitive." Research from Sweden found that fragrance contact allergy affects 13% of dermatitis patients undergoing patch testing, with individual fragrance markers showing 6-7% prevalence[1]. Add preservatives, surfactants, and other hidden triggers, and the numbers climb even higher. The products promising to soothe your skin may actually be fueling your flares.

You have probably tried dozens of lotions, creams, and cleansers. Each new product brings hope. Then comes the familiar sting, the redness, the itch that won't quit. Studies show that many patients with moderate-to-severe eczema struggle to find relief, even with prescription treatments[2]. Sometimes the problem is not the treatment itself. It is what else is in the bottle. You know your skin better than anyone. You have learned which fabrics to avoid, which temperatures trigger flares, which foods cause problems. Now it is time to decode your ingredient labels with the same precision.

This guide reveals the 12 worst ingredients for eczema, backed by peer-reviewed research. You will learn exactly how each ingredient damages sensitive skin. You will discover the scientific names manufacturers use to hide them. And you will get practical strategies for identifying your personal triggers and building a safer skincare routine. Research shows that identifying and eliminating problematic ingredients can significantly improve eczema symptoms[3]. Understanding these ingredients could change everything.

Here is what makes this guide different: every claim comes from clinical research, not marketing. A landmark 2017 European study called the methylisothiazolinone crisis an "epidemic," with sensitization rates climbing from 1.9% to over 6% in just three years[4]. This preservative still lurks in products on store shelves today.

Key Takeaways

  • Fragrance is one of the most frequent causes of cosmetic allergic reactions[8], affecting 10% of tested eczema patients
  • Methylisothiazolinone (MI) triggered an allergy epidemic[4] and was named 2013 Allergen of the Year[15]
  • Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) increases water loss[13] and strips essential ceramides from skin
  • Propylene glycol affects 2-3% of patch-tested patients[22] and hides in medications too
  • Hidden formaldehyde appears in 18% of products[27] without formaldehyde releasers listed

Table of Contents

Why Ingredients Matter More for Eczema

Your skin is not like everyone else's skin. Eczema changes the rules. The outer layer of healthy skin forms a tight barrier that keeps irritants out and moisture in. But eczema disrupts this barrier at the molecular level.

Loss-of-function mutations in the filaggrin gene are a major predisposing factor for atopic dermatitis, increasing eczema risk by 3-5 times[5]. Filaggrin is a protein essential for barrier function. Without enough of it, your skin becomes more permeable. Ingredients that healthy skin tolerates can penetrate deeper into eczema-prone skin and trigger inflammation. Understanding the root causes of atopic dermatitis helps explain why ingredient awareness matters so much.

This is why the "if it burns, it's working" mentality can backfire. Research demonstrates that people with atopic dermatitis show significantly increased skin reactions to irritants compared to healthy controls[6]. Your skin is already working harder. It does not need additional challenges from harsh ingredients.

Research Finding: A 24-hour exposure to just 1% sodium lauryl sulfate produces unique inflammatory responses in atopic dermatitis patients, including spongiosis and eosinophil infiltration that mimics active eczema flares[7].

Understanding which ingredients cause problems helps you make informed choices. The culprits fall into three categories: direct irritants that damage skin on contact, sensitizers that trigger allergic reactions over time, and drying agents that strip moisture from skin already desperate to retain it. Let's examine the worst offenders.

Fragrance: The Hidden Danger in "Gentle" Products

Fragrance ranks as one of the most frequent causes of cosmetic allergic reactions, with about 10% of eczema patients testing positive for fragrance mix allergy[8]. The prevalence of fragrance contact allergy in the general population ranges from 1.7% to 4.1%, but in patch-tested patients with dermatitis, positive reaction rates climb to 5-11%[9]. For people with compromised skin barriers, fragrance poses an even greater risk.

Why Fragrance Causes Problems

The word "fragrance" on a label can hide dozens of individual chemicals. Manufacturers consider fragrance formulations trade secrets, so they are not required to disclose specific components. More than 2,500 different fragrance ingredients are currently used in perfumes, and at least 100 of these are known contact allergens[8]. When you apply a scented product, you expose your skin to an unknown cocktail of potential triggers.

A large European study found that female sex and sensitive skin are the strongest predictors for developing fragrance allergy[10]. The study also showed that high exposure to scented leave-on products (like lotions and creams) increases the risk of sensitization. This matters because leave-on products stay in contact with skin longer than rinse-off products.

13%

of dermatitis patients undergoing patch testing are diagnosed with fragrance contact allergy[1]

The "Unscented" Trap

Products labeled "unscented" are not necessarily fragrance-free. Manufacturers often add masking fragrances to cover the natural odor of other ingredients. These masking fragrances can still trigger reactions. Look for products specifically labeled "fragrance-free" instead. Even then, check the ingredient list for terms like "parfum," "perfume," or "aroma."

Natural fragrances from essential oils are not automatically safer. Research shows that contact allergy to essential oils cannot always be predicted from allergy to standard fragrance markers[11]. Lavender, tea tree, and citrus oils all contain potential allergens. "Natural" does not mean "non-allergenic."

When Fragrance Can Be Safe

Not all fragrances are created equal. The key distinction lies between complex fragrance mixtures and carefully tested hypoallergenic alternatives. SmartLotion, for example, contains a hypoallergenic natural apricot fragrance that is 100% safe for dermatitis and allergy sufferers. How can a fragrance be safe when this article just explained how problematic fragrances are? The difference comes down to formulation:

  • Hypoallergenic testing: SmartLotion's apricot fragrance has been specifically tested on sensitive and eczema-prone skin, not just general populations. Products that pass hypoallergenic testing have demonstrated they do not trigger allergic reactions in susceptible individuals.
  • Simple vs. complex mixtures: Most fragrances contain 50-200 chemical components, any of which could be a sensitizer. Hypoallergenic fragrances use simpler, well-characterized compounds with known safety profiles.
  • Natural source with controlled composition: Unlike essential oils that vary in composition and oxidize into allergens over time, a controlled natural fragrance maintains consistent, predictable properties.
  • Low concentration: The amount of fragrance matters significantly. Minimal concentrations in leave-on products reduce sensitization risk dramatically.

The distinction matters because completely fragrance-free products are not always necessary. What matters is avoiding the complex synthetic fragrance mixtures and untested essential oil blends that trigger most reactions. SmartLotion's hypoallergenic natural apricot fragrance demonstrates that a pleasant scent and eczema-safe formulation are not mutually exclusive. Patients who react to typical scented products can often use properly formulated hypoallergenic fragrances without issue. For more details, read why SmartLotion contains fragrance.

📚 Related Resource

Learn how Dr. Harlan treats contact dermatitis with SmartLotion in his Contact Dermatitis Treatment Protocol.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: The Barrier Destroyer

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is the most studied surfactant in dermatology research. Scientists use it specifically to induce irritation in experimental models because its effects are so predictable[12]. This foaming agent creates the satisfying lather in cleansers, shampoos, and body washes. But that lather comes at a cost for sensitive skin.

How SLS Damages Skin

SLS strips lipids from the skin barrier, particularly ceramides. Ceramides are waxy molecules that hold skin cells together and prevent water loss. Research shows that SLS exposure produces a dose-related increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL)[13]. This means your skin loses moisture faster after contact with SLS.

Studies comparing SLS to milder surfactants found pronounced reactions to SLS, while sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and alkyl polyglucoside (APG) produced far milder responses[12]. The difference matters when choosing products. SLES (note the "eth") is a gentler alternative with a similar cleansing action.

Surfactant Irritation Comparison
Surfactant Irritation Level Common Products
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) High Shampoos, body washes, toothpaste
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) Moderate Shampoos, cleansers
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Low to Moderate Baby products, "gentle" cleansers
Alkyl Polyglucosides Low Natural/organic products

SLS and Atopic Dermatitis

People with atopic dermatitis show increased susceptibility to SLS-induced irritation compared to healthy controls[6]. Visual scoring and skin thickness measurements confirm stronger reactions in atopic patients. The skin barrier disruption from SLS exposure is also longer-lasting in people with eczema[7].

The UK's Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) issued a warning that aqueous cream containing SLS may cause skin irritation, particularly in children with eczema[14]. This warning came after research showed that a product commonly prescribed for eczema was potentially making the condition worse.

Methylisothiazolinone: The Epidemic Allergen

The American Contact Dermatitis Society named methylisothiazolinone (MI) the Contact Allergen of the Year for 2013[15]. This preservative triggered what researchers called an "epidemic" of allergic contact dermatitis. Sensitization rates in some European centers climbed from 1.9% in 2009 to 6% by 2012[4]. In London, rates reached as high as 6% of all tested patients[16].

The Rise of MI

MI was initially used in industrial products as part of a mixture called Kathon CG (methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone or MCI/MI). In 2005, regulators approved MI alone for use in cosmetics at higher concentrations[17]. The thinking was that MI was a weaker sensitizer than the combination. That thinking proved wrong.

When used alone, MI requires much higher concentrations to work as a preservative. These higher concentrations, sometimes 25 times greater than in the original mixture, dramatically increased allergic reactions[16]. By 2013, MI was found in 12.9% of all products in the Contact Allergy Management Program database. It was the most common preservative in hair care and household products[18].

2005

MI approved for cosmetics in EU and US at 100 ppm

2010

First reports of MI contact allergy from domestic products[17]

2013

Named Allergen of the Year; sensitization rates reach 6%[4]

2016

Sensitization grows more than tenfold since 2012[19]

Where MI Hides

MI appears in shampoos, conditioners, body washes, baby wipes, household cleaners, and even paint. The Contact Allergy Management Program database, which tracks ingredient prevalence in consumer products, found MI was one of the most common preservatives in hair care and household products[18]. The preservative also shows up in products you might not expect, including liquid laundry detergent, dishwashing liquid, and cosmetic wipes.

Hands are the most commonly affected body area (43.4%), followed by face (32.7%) and arms (14.6%)[19]. If you struggle with hand eczema, checking your products for MI should be a priority. MI is volatile, meaning it can also cause airborne contact dermatitis in freshly painted rooms[20]. Some highly sensitive individuals develop reactions just from being in a space where MI-containing products are used.

Label Alert: Look for these names: methylisothiazolinone, MI, 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, Neolone 950, and Microcare MT. Also watch for MCI/MI mixtures labeled as Kathon CG or Euxyl K 100.

Propylene Glycol: The Contentious Carrier

Propylene glycol (PG) was named the American Contact Dermatitis Society's Allergen of the Year for 2018[21]. This ingredient creates a scientific puzzle. It is a weak sensitizer, yet positive patch test reactions occur in 2-3% of tested patients[22]. The confusion arises because PG can cause both allergic reactions and simple irritation, making diagnosis challenging.

Why PG Is Problematic

PG serves as a humectant (moisture-attracting agent), emollient, and solvent in countless products. It helps other ingredients penetrate skin more effectively. This penetration enhancement can be a problem when other irritants are present. PG increases the delivery of both beneficial and harmful ingredients into deeper skin layers.

Research shows that PG sensitization appears more common in people with underlying skin conditions. The compromised barrier in eczema may allow PG to penetrate more readily and trigger reactions[23]. Patients with leg ulcers or stasis dermatitis show particularly high rates of PG sensitization.

The Ubiquity Problem

PG appears in an astonishing range of products:

  • Skincare products and cosmetics
  • Topical medications (including some prescribed for eczema)
  • Processed foods and beverages
  • E-cigarette liquids
  • Antifreeze and de-icing solutions

The presence of PG in medications creates a particular challenge. Someone allergic to PG may react to the very cream prescribed to treat their dermatitis. Systemic contact dermatitis can occur when PG-sensitive individuals ingest foods or medications containing it[21]. Symptoms typically appear within 3-16 hours of ingestion[21].

📚 Related Resource

For comprehensive guidance on treating eczema safely, explore: Atopic Dermatitis Treatment Options

Formaldehyde Releasers: Hidden Sensitizers

Formaldehyde itself rarely appears on ingredient lists anymore. But formaldehyde-releasing preservatives remain common in cosmetics, medications, and household products. These chemicals slowly release formaldehyde to prevent microbial growth. The sensitization rate to formaldehyde is 2-3% in Europe and as high as 8% in the United States[24].

Common Formaldehyde Releasers

The five main formaldehyde releasers in cosmetics are[25]:

  • Quaternium-15 (now banned in EU cosmetics)
  • Diazolidinyl urea (Germall II)
  • DMDM hydantoin
  • Imidazolidinyl urea (Germall 115)
  • 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (Bronopol)

In the USA, approximately 20% of cosmetics and personal care products contain a formaldehyde-releaser[26]. Stay-on products average 17% while rinse-off products average 27%[26]. These chemicals release varying amounts of free formaldehyde depending on pH, temperature, and storage conditions.

The Hidden Formaldehyde Problem

A recent study found hidden formaldehyde in 18% of products that did not list formaldehyde releasers in their ingredients[27]. Some products contained enough formaldehyde to trigger reactions in sensitive individuals. Self-tanners are particular culprits because dihydroxyacetone (DHA), the active ingredient, can contain formaldehyde impurities.

Important: Research shows that even low concentrations of formaldehyde (10-20 ppm) may provoke or maintain allergic contact dermatitis when used on already compromised skin like eczema[28]. Atopic dermatitis is a risk factor for becoming allergic to formaldehyde.

Formaldehyde allergy often presents in women with hand eczema, sometimes with facial involvement[29]. The hands encounter formaldehyde-releasing products in dishwashing liquids, cleaning products, and personal care items. Sweat can also leach formaldehyde from treated fabrics, explaining why some people develop dermatitis in areas of friction or perspiration.

Retinoids and Retinol: Potent but Problematic

Retinol and its derivatives offer proven benefits for aging, acne, and hyperpigmentation. But these vitamin A compounds can cause significant irritation, particularly in eczema-prone skin. The side effects are so predictable that researchers have a name for them: retinoid dermatitis[30]. Symptoms include redness, peeling, burning, and itching.

How Retinoids Affect Skin Barrier

Retinoids increase cell turnover, which sounds beneficial. But this accelerated shedding can outpace your skin's ability to rebuild. Studies show that applying retinoic acid leads to increased transepidermal water loss, a direct measure of compromised barrier function[30]. For skin that already struggles with barrier integrity, this additional challenge can trigger flares. Understanding how moisturizers work can help you rebuild after barrier damage.

Research has identified the specific inflammatory pathways involved. Retinol exposure increases secretion of inflammatory cytokines including MCP-1 and IL-8[31]. These proteins attract immune cells and promote inflammation. The result is the characteristic redness and irritation that many users experience.

Retinoids and Atopic Dermatitis

Interestingly, people with atopic dermatitis show reduced retinoid concentrations in their skin compared to healthy individuals[32]. Both affected and non-affected skin areas show this deficiency. This finding suggests that retinoid signaling may be inherently altered in eczema. Adding topical retinoids to already-compromised skin requires careful consideration.

If you want to try retinoids despite having eczema, dermatologists recommend starting with the lowest concentration, applying only once or twice weekly, and using a cream-based formula rather than a gel[33]. Consider alternatives like bakuchiol, which showed comparable anti-aging benefits with less irritation in clinical trials[33].

Other Ingredients to Watch

You have avoided the big six. Your products are fragrance-free, SLS-free, MI-free. Yet your skin still flares. What else could be hiding in your bathroom cabinet? Several other common ingredients deserve attention when the usual suspects are not to blame.

Drying Alcohols: Not All Alcohols Are Equal

Not all alcohols are problematic. Drying alcohols (ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, SD alcohol) can strip lipids from the stratum corneum and damage the skin barrier[35]. These often appear early in ingredient lists for astringent products, toners, and some acne treatments.

Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol) are different. These act as emollients and emulsifiers, actually helping to moisturize skin. Do not avoid a product just because "alcohol" appears in an ingredient name.

Harsh Exfoliants: Too Much of a Good Thing

Chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) can cause skin irritation, redness, and sensitivity, especially in eczema-prone skin[36]. Glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid increase cell turnover but can also compromise barrier function. Physical scrubs with rough particles create micro-tears that worsen inflammation.

Essential Oils: When "Natural" Backfires

Tea tree oil, lavender oil, and citrus oils contain known allergens. Limonene and linalool (common in citrus and floral oils) oxidize over time to form more allergenic compounds[34]. "Natural" products heavy in essential oils may cause more problems than synthetic alternatives.

Lanolin: The Surprising Sensitizer

Derived from sheep's wool, lanolin is an excellent emollient for most people. However, it sensitizes some individuals and is worth patch testing if you have persistent eczema that does not respond to treatment. If you are dealing with leftover eczema patches that won't clear, lanolin sensitivity could be a hidden culprit. Children with atopic dermatitis have been found to have significantly increased rates of sensitization to lanolin and wool alcohol compared to non-atopic children[37].

How to Read Labels Like a Dermatologist

Ingredient lists follow a specific order: components appear from highest to lowest concentration. The first five ingredients make up the bulk of the product. Focus your attention there first. Preservatives and fragrances typically appear near the end because they're used in smaller amounts, but they can still cause significant reactions.

Practical Label-Reading Strategy

  1. Check for fragrance first: Look for "fragrance," "parfum," "perfume," or "aroma" anywhere on the list
  2. Scan for surfactants: SLS and SLES usually appear in the first third of cleansing products
  3. Look for preservatives: MI, formaldehyde releasers, and other preservatives appear in the final third
  4. Watch for hidden names: Keep a list of alternative names for problem ingredients on your phone
Common Ingredient Aliases
Problem Ingredient Other Names to Watch For
Fragrance Parfum, perfume, aroma, essential oil blend
Methylisothiazolinone MI, Neolone 950, 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one
SLS Sodium dodecyl sulfate, sulfuric acid monododecyl ester
Formaldehyde releasers DMDM hydantoin, Germall, Bronopol, Quaternium-15

Finding Safer Alternatives

Now for the good news. Avoiding problematic ingredients does not mean settling for products that barely work. Plenty of effective options exist for sensitive and eczema-prone skin. The key shift: stop focusing only on what to avoid, and start looking for what actually helps.

What to Look For

  • Ceramides: These barrier-building lipids mimic your skin's natural composition
  • Hyaluronic acid: A gentle humectant that attracts moisture without irritation
  • Niacinamide: Supports barrier function and reduces inflammation
  • Colloidal oatmeal: FDA-recognized skin protectant with anti-itch properties
  • Glycerin: Simple, effective humectant with excellent safety profile

Some newer formulations address both inflammation and skin microbiome health. For example, SmartLotion combines low-dose hydrocortisone with prebiotic ingredients including sulfur and grapefruit seed extract to support beneficial skin bacteria while controlling flares. This dual approach can be particularly helpful for repairing damaged skin barriers.

Understanding Initial Stinging: Not Always a Bad Sign

Here is something important that surprises many eczema patients: even well-formulated products can cause mild stinging when first applied to damaged skin. This does not necessarily mean the product contains problematic ingredients. SmartLotion, for example, may cause brief initial stinging due to three specific ingredients:

  • Water content: All water-based creams can cause evaporative stinging when applied to a compromised skin barrier. The rapid evaporation stimulates exposed nerve endings.
  • Benzoyl alcohol: This preservative is gentler than alternatives like methylisothiazolinone, but it can still trigger sensitive nerves on very damaged skin. Unlike harsh preservatives, benzoyl alcohol does not cause allergic sensitization over time.
  • Sulfur (0.5%): While therapeutically beneficial for restoring healthy skin bacteria and providing anti-inflammatory effects, sulfur can initially stimulate raw nerve endings. This temporary discomfort is the trade-off for sulfur's ability to support the skin microbiome.

The key distinction is whether the sensation improves or worsens with continued use:

  • Normal healing response: Mild stinging that lasts 5-10 minutes and decreases daily, typically resolving within 3-7 days
  • Allergic reaction: Stinging that worsens with each application, spreads beyond the application site, or persists for more than 30 minutes

Many patients find that initial stinging from an effective eczema cream diminishes significantly within the first week of consistent use as the skin barrier begins to heal. The sensation indicates the treatment is penetrating where it is needed most. For more details on this phenomenon, see our guide on why eczema cream stings and what it means.

Testing New Products

Before using any new product on eczema-prone skin:

  1. Apply a small amount to the inner arm or behind the ear
  2. Wait 24-48 hours and check for redness, itching, or bumps
  3. If no reaction occurs, try the product on a small area of affected skin
  4. Wait another 24-48 hours before broader application

This patch testing approach helps identify problematic products before they cause widespread flares. Keep a skincare diary to track reactions and identify patterns over time.

Gentle Alternative: When looking for an effective eczema cream, choose formulations specifically designed for long-term use on sensitive skin. Products that combine anti-inflammatory action with barrier support offer the best outcomes for treatment-resistant cases.

When to See a Dermatologist

Some situations require professional guidance. See a dermatologist if you experience:

  • Severe or sudden reactions to products you have used before
  • Eczema that does not improve despite avoiding known triggers
  • Signs of skin infection (increased redness, warmth, pus, or crusting)
  • Reactions affecting your eyes, lips, or genitals
  • Widespread rash following use of a new product

A dermatologist can perform patch testing to identify specific allergens. This standardized test involves applying small amounts of common allergens to your back under adhesive patches. After 48-96 hours, the dermatologist reads the results. Patch testing can identify contact allergies you never suspected, including reactions to ingredients in products you thought were safe. For adults with persistent symptoms, Dr. Harlan has developed a detailed Atopic Dermatitis Treatment Protocol that many patients find helpful.

Understanding the causes of your flares is the first step toward better control. Ingredient awareness, combined with appropriate treatment, can help you achieve clearer, more comfortable skin.

Conclusion

The products marketed as "gentle" or "sensitive" sometimes contain the very ingredients that trigger eczema flares. Fragrance, sodium lauryl sulfate, methylisothiazolinone, propylene glycol, formaldehyde releasers, and retinoids all pose documented risks for sensitive skin. Research shows that eliminating problematic ingredients leads to measurable improvement for many patients.

You do not need to memorize every chemical name. Start with the worst offenders: fragrance and SLS. Read labels consistently. Patch test new products before widespread use. Keep a diary of reactions. These simple steps put you back in control of your skincare routine. For a comprehensive action plan, explore our guide on how to tackle eczema safely.

Your skin has its own language. The itching, redness, and flares are messages. Learning to read ingredient labels is like learning to respond. With the right knowledge, you can make choices that support your skin instead of fighting against it.

References

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About the Author: Jessica Arenas, Lead Research Analyst

Jessica makes sense of the numbers behind skin health. Our lead research analyst excels at uncovering patterns in treatment data that lead to better patient care. Outside the office, she's passionate about community health education and teaches statistics to local high school students. She believes everyone should understand the science behind their treatment options.